Without knowing your intentions and history, I don't think a 9-foot pool table is worth the trouble, especially if you're just starting out and have time to do some experimentation.
Are you trying to have serious competitions and parties where playing pool is the focus, or would you be performing drills for practice? Are you going to be in a league (which holds league play on a 9-foot poo table), or going to go pro some day?
I'm guessing the support post is 10" square. I started out with a 7-foot pool table and after a few weeks I was able to estimate how often such an obstacle was going to matter and I rotated the placement of the pool table closer to it. Then, I either had a shorty cue on-hand or decided that I would allow the cue ball to be moved toward the target object ball a few inches as long as no other factors of the shot were changed.
If you are indeed able to experiment, first get a cheap (or "Craigslist free") lightweight pool table (or even plywood on sawhorses) and see how often your cue is affected. The standard assumption for full cue clearance is 5', but of course we don't all have that luxury. So, a 7-foot pool table would need 17' x 13.5', but assuming a 4' all-around clearance would allow you to use the bottom part of your map nicely.
I've had pool tables in my one-bedroom and studio apartments, and sometimes rotating the table 20-degrees in a rectangular room made a big difference in allowing the cues to go into constricted space, such as that to the left of your pole. And remember, 7-foot pool tables aren't that much of a sacrifice on practice realism; Every pocket may be closer to your object ball, but you learn to compensate for more crowded space for the same size of balls!
P.S.: I assume that if you created that map image above, that you also created fully-scaled (paper?) versions of the top views of the various-sized tables and their 5' (or less) clearances. Of course, they would look like rectangles inside rounded-corner rectangles to reflect where the cues would touch the walls, etc.