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Balancing Playable Areas In A Game Room

Balancing Playable Areas In A Game Room

I'm working with the room shown above trying to position an 8' table. The green lines are the playing area and physical size of the pool table and the blue lines show the recommended playing area. The room is almost large enough with the exception of the railing and stairs in the lower left corner. The cue stick passes over the railing, but a player will be limited in where they can stand. I have moved the table away from the railing by 5 inches which partially alleviates the railing issue but now the top and right walls will slightly interfere with play.

My question is in this case is it better to be really crammed in one area with perfect clearance everywhere else, or to spread the cramming more evenly as I did in the figure. Alternatively, should I just go with a 7' table?


Balancing Playable Areas In A Game Room

Replies & Comments

  1. galagaZeke on 8/30/2012 7:26:53 AM

    WOW! After I clicked on your drawing, I realized what a great depiction it became!

    I had an identical problem when building my pool room. The "obstruction" in my case was also stairs that encroached the imaginary lines of cue stick impingement.

    However, given that the stairs, assuming a six-inch rise per tread, do not actually become a backstroke impediment until they rise to the surface height of the table - which is 30" - the shooter may stand, kneel, sit or crouch on those stairs - since they are a fixed component of the room. But the stairs themselves don't prevent a normal stroke with a normal stick in any case, as shown in your drawing.

    I'd stick with the 8-footer option and play around a bit with final table placement, minimizing wall to stick butt conflicts and minimize or fawgettabowt the minimally intrusive leg, foot and body obstacles of the shooters when shots from atop the stairs are required.

    If I can see the table and the shot, and my stick has no rearward obstructions, my body position is secondary, especially as shown in your drawing.

    I have one wall that when shooting a "stuck-on-the-rail" shot - is 1" "in the way" of the wall when holding my 2" over standard length stick dead flat. I overcome the conflict by going to a 15ยบ stick rise and picking up an inch or two of "clearance" avoiding a wall tap on a normal backstroke. Of 100 or so shots, I might encounter a level stick wall conflict 1 or 2% of all 100 shots.

    Of course, I could switch to my normal shaft, reducing the stick length by 2" but I prefer to play around the conflict, rather than change shafts.

    Let us know how it goes - please.

  2. galagaMitch Alsup on 8/31/2012 9:32:44 AM

    I have a similar issue (a wall in my case) and a tiny bit of cramp on the ends (yours on the side).

    My opinion, you will be just fine; although you might want to pick up a 55" cue to deal with the cramped sides. As for the stairs, I forsee little issue.

  3. galagasturrisi01 on 9/24/2012 8:25:21 PM

    I would go with the others... worst case scenario is call a buddy over who does carpentry and bribe him with some cold beers and lower the railing a couple of inches.

  4. galagaDsmithBFL on 5/6/2013 5:05:48 AM

    I feel going with the alternative option that you mentioned would be better - try out a 7' table. From the look of the layout, you seem to be cutting it pretty close. So rather than trying to accommodate any other space, I'd suggest going with a new smaller table. Oh, and nice depiction of the overall layout by-the-way.

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Balancing Playable Areas In A Game Room

  • Title: Balancing Playable Areas In A Game Room
  • Author:
  • Published: 8/19/2012 11:56:58 AM