I do have all of the catalog images of the finished ProLine pool table models, but their website didn't show diagrams of the construction itself. They did have long text descriptions of how their pool tables were constructed which I'll share below.
These are from the ProLine website (back when it was still online), starting with the frame:
Tapered Frame Style Tables
Tapered frame tables have a frame that tapers from top to bottom with the legs attached to the underside of the frame. Due to the type of support required for this type of frame, there are certain necessary features used in ProLine Tables which give added stability.
Mitered corner joints are incorporated into ProLine frames to give you the furniture beauty that you demand when purchasing a fine piece of furniture. This is accomplished by perfectly matching the side and end frames mitered instead of placing a decorative cap over the gap between the sections of wood.
All wood joints and bracing in the corners provide the maximum stability to the corner. Metal bracket corners just simply cannot provide the proper amount of strength needed for good stability.
A factory assembled frame allows for the frame to be pre-leveled at the factory and finished as one unit for consistency in the furniture quality & flatness.
Knock-down frames allow for the frame to be taken apart if necessary to allow access around tight corners such as lofts or basement stairs.
2” x 6” interlocking cross beams are the thickest in the industry and create the maximum stability achievable in a pool table.
Center beams running the length of the table on all sizes provide added support to the frame and additional support points to maintain a perfect level of the table.
ProLine pool tables have solid wood beams for all supports. Many manufacturers use plywood beams for this critical support section.
Straight Frame Style Tables
Straight frame style tables have legs extending all the way from the floor to the slate. The frame sections bolt to the sides of the legs.
One advantage of this style is that the slate rests directly on top of the legs for maximum strength.
ProLine uses 2” x 6” interlocking cross beams to support the slate; these are the thickest in the industry and create the maximum stability achievable in a pool table.
Center beams running the length of the table on 8 ft and 9 ft models provide added support to the frame and additional support points for perfect leveling of the table.
Because the frame sections are bolted to the legs, the possibility of over-tightening is eliminated.
Knock-down frames allow for access into any room for installation. The undersides of the frames are sealed to prevent moisture and humidity from entering the frames, stabilizing the bed are for accurate leveling.
The apron, also known as the skirt, is the wood which mounts vertically from the rail. The purpose of the apron is to cover the raw edge of the slate and the staples which attached the cloth to the slate.
ProLine uses 3/4” thick wood in all aprons to make them impossible to break. The aprons interlock with rails to provide added strength and create a finished, furniture appeal to your table. Mounting blocks interlock on the back side of the apron to eliminate exposed screw heads on the outside of your aprons. There are no visible apron screws.
Aprons are fastened directly to the solid hardwood framing on the bottom of the slate. Aprons can be removed from the rails for easy assembly of pockets & for ease of recovery.
The rail construction is the “heartbeat” of a pool table. The rail is made of three main sections; the rubber, the rail liner, and the rail cap. All three parts work together. This is an area where ProLine's craftmanship stands out. Our rails are truly the best in the world. Be sure that your investment is protected with ProLine Speed Cushions and rails.
Rubber is the most critical aspect of the rail system. In order for a pool table to be tournament approved, the Billiard Congress of America requires that “Rubber cushions should be triangular in shape and molded with conventional K-66 profile with a base height of 1 3/16” and a nose height of 1”, with control fabric molded to the top and base area of the cushion.”
ProLine SPEED CUSHIONS are K-66 style cushions as required and approved by the BCA for tournament play. They are time tested for correct speed and accuracy.
ProLine pool tables have Live Gum Rubber Cushions. ProLine SPEED CUSHIONS maintain the highest percentage of live gum rubber for a lifetime of consistent play.
Control fabric is molded into the top of the rubber with approx. 3/16” of nose cushion exposed. This allows the ball to rebound with the same accurate and uniform speed, no matter where the ball strikes the cushion.
Live air space, assists the cushion in its ability to control the speed and accuracy of the ball. It also allows the cushion to breath from the front to back, maintaining rubber consistency.
All ProLine models meet or exceed BCA standards.
The rail liner or “sub rail” is the part of the rail that you cannot see once your table is assembled. It is what the rubber is actually attachesd to and it is the part of the rail that comes in contact with the slate and allows the rails to be fastened to the slate. The mechanism used to fasten the rails to the slate is critical. The tighter the rails are fastened to the slate, the better the table will play. ProLine Billiard Tables use solid wood rail liners for the most accurate rebound available.
A 3/8” T-nut bolting system allows for the maximum tightness between the rail and the slate. This eliminates the voids behind the rubber which occur with the commonly used “floating nut plate” and give a full 5/8" of thread for bolting to.
T-Nuts are permanently embedded into rails giving perfect alignment, and cannot come loose from overtightening. T-nuts have over twice as much thread as nut-plates for securing the bolts.
ProLine uses dome washers on rail bolts which lay directly against the slate to provide the ultimate in tightening ability. Many companies uses washers which lay against the wood slate framing which can be compressed into the wood when tightening.
Tack strip on underside of rail allows an area for stapling the cloth to the rails so that they do not impede the height of the rubber.
This is the wood section of the rail which is visible. How it looks affects the overall appearance of your table. It should be made of a hardwood because of the scratching which can occur from cues being scraped across the rail
Solid wood rails provide the furniture appeal that you desire in your table. ProLine tables have oak, maple, and cherry rail caps available on all models. Fancy, wide profile rails enhance the beauty of ProLine tables at no additional charge.
Diamond shaped, hand inlaid, custom sights give the pool table the detail you should demand. Sights are flush mounted in the rails before the wood is sanded, giving a smooth to the touch, furniture finish. Each and every sight on every rail is hand cleaned by dedicated craftsmen.
Their are two types of frames used in the billiard industry: tapered frames and straight frames. Each style is unique in the way that it is built, but both are of equal strength and stability.
Solid wood leg blocks in the corners of the frame give a stable position for mounting the legs to the frame. Most manufacturers mount the legs to screwed on metal plates which can bend, rust, and weaken over time. These wood blocks also act as additional bracing in the corner of the table.
ProLine billiard table legs are bolted to the frame with T-nuts embedded directly into the legs. Legs are drilled for plugs containing T-Nuts and held in place with cross-pinning dowels to allow the legs to be bolted to the frame with 3/8” bolts instead of using lag-bolts or furniture screws, which can pull out if overtightened. The embedded T-nuts with the cross-pinning dowels provide outstanding stability as the table absorbs bumps and blows to the ends and sides of the table.
The underside of frames are sealed to prevent moisture and humidity from entering frames.