Hi. I'm new to the sport and the forum. Just got my first stick. Forgive several basic questions.
How do I keep the shaft as smooth as it is now? Do cues ever need to be revarnished? Any suggestions other suggestions?
- billiardsforum on 4/10/2008 7:50:39 AM
Welcome to the Billiards Forum, and thanks for posting. There are a few articles in the Billiard Equipment section of the site that you may wish to browse in relation to your question about billiard cue maintenance and keeping your pool cue shaft looking new.
The first is the caring for your pool cue page which references each of the three articles. The first one covers proper storage for the pool cue, the second one covers cleaning the shaft of a pool cue, and the third covers general maintenance of the ferrule and tip of the pool cue.
There is also another major article about to be published within the next week that covers all aspects of maintaining a billiard cue. I'll update this thread once it has been published.
- Fenwick on 4/11/2008 10:31:38 PM
I have a older shaft, 11.96mm + or - .0003. 20+ years of grime had made it yellow and blue from chalk. I was able to bring it back to like new using Mr.Clean Magic Eraser. Caution, it will remove the varnish. I used it dry and it is less abrasive then 1,000 grit sandpaper. For my new shafts I use a Cue Cure cleaning pad. If I bridge of a corner pocket the shaft tends to pick up the grime from the rubber and I can feel a line of dirt on the shaft. I'll use a Cue Cure pad and it's smooth as glass again. Another product I've used is Q-Wiz original. This is a sandpaper disk, 2 sided. Also will remove the varnish. The disk has a rough and a fine side and it is washable. I'm not connected to any of the afore mentioned products. Sanding or using any abrasive products are always a last resort. I myself have never heard of re varnishing a shaft. I apply chalk with my right hand and blow or tap off the excess before shooting. Many players just use a towel to wipe down their shafts and remove the chalk from the tip of the shaft before storing.
- quickshot on 4/11/2008 11:16:14 PM
Like Fenwick, I blow the excess chalk off the tip before shooting. I even have a tendency to over chalk sometimes which is a waste I guess. As for my shaft, I use a shaft cleaning pad and then it wipe it down with a fine, cotton cloth. About twice a month I clean the shaft and then give it a coat of pure Carnauba wax. I am a happy camper when I feel that shaft glide through my bridge with zero friction.
- njlarry on 4/14/2008 4:52:13 PM
Thanks guys for all the help. I too want keep that "zero friction" feel. Something I've never found with house cues.
- quickshot on 4/14/2008 11:20:17 PM
You'll never find a zero-friction house cue unless they just bought it. You're lucky you can find a warp-free one.
- QP Cues on 4/15/2008 5:50:59 AM
There is no way possibly to keep your shaft clean forever. You want a darker shaft anyhow, right? The cue ball is white, so why try to make or keep the wood white?
No one is more of a perfectionist than I am, but the reality is you are simply peeing into a strong wind by attempting to keep the wood white or keep it clean.
Oils from the hand get into the wood fibers and you want that because it keeps water from harming the wood and warping it. All of those dirty things you do not want to get into the wood fibers are exactly what is helping to seal the wood and keep it straight.
Then what place a liquid on the wood trying to force it into the fibers to take out the protection?
Try to never use anything less than 1,000 grit, but on my own personal cues I never use less than 1,500 grit and always finish up with 2,000 grit.
I then use the same wax that the British Museum uses on their furniture: Renaissance polish. You can find it here at this link. brownells.com/aspx/NS/store/ProductDetail.aspx?p=236
- Firework on 5/19/2008 9:29:53 AM
You can try baby powder (not kidding).
- guest on 5/19/2008 7:34:51 PM
there is a company called Micro-mesh that make specialty polishing products. They have a starter set of sanding fabrics that go from 1600g to 12,000g. The set should only cost about $20. You can polish about 5 wood shafts with it.
I've been using them on my shaft for about a year. It's awesome, once you finish your shaft will be so smooth that hand chalk will cause friction. If you are not skilled at polishing, I would recommend that you find some that is or buy a cheap cue and practice. It's VERY important that you complete each grit before moving on to next one and never skip one. I start with "0000" steel wool to remove all dirt and varnish. If done correctly, the shaft will have a higher gloss than a varnished one. I also apply a good cue sealant before i move onto the 12,000g. Since my shafts are now bare wood. BTW... it will take 1 to 1 1/2 hours to complete 1 shaft.
- Ginger on 5/19/2008 8:17:15 PM
guest - thats really interesting...thanks for the detailed instructions. Since you have done this before, can you comment on whether the time spend on this (and the money) is really worth the performance gain you get?