I was wondering if some of the seasoned professional game room installers around would be able to help me out.
I have the chance to purchase a 9' pool table, but to have no obstructions in the room, I would have to use:
- Zeke on 2/5/2013 3:32:31 PM
Lucky, If I had a choice between a 7' table and a 57" stick - vs. a 9' with 48" - I'd take the 7' all day long.
In a perfect world, you'd find a way to move the obstruction, have your cake and eat it too !
If a 4" lolly column would mandate a 48" cue, that's something else. Especially if it's 4' away from the closets rail...
That kind of rare occurrence block-out, is not the end of the world - or a deal breaker IMO.
- luckyshot on 2/5/2013 7:15:35 PM
Thanks for the reply Zeke,
If I were to use a 57" cue I would be able to get 57" clearance all the way around the table except for in two spots. One would be near a side pocket and 45" away and the other is by a corner pocket and it would be 40" away. I would think that if I used a shorty stick at those to spots I should be OK. What do you think?
- Zeke on 2/6/2013 6:56:16 AM
Lucky, You don't need 57" of clearance from the table's outer edge - although that would be nice - to avoid the obstruction.
Most 9-foot tables have at least a 6" wide rail before we get to the inner edge of the cushion, the closest the cue-ball can get to any obstruction.
If not done already, I urge you to make a sketch showing the playing surface (from innermost cushion edge), the table's outer most edge(s), and the room and the obstructions on a sheet of paper.
Scan, or photograph and convert the drawing to a jpg file and include that in your next post.
I'd also make sure your favorite stick is 57" long. Mine's actually 59 because I use the snooker shaft for better balance. I'm 6' 5" tall and prefer the longer stick, despite it just barely tapping the wall on a long practice stroke.
- luckyshot on 2/7/2013 7:45:09 PM
Here is a pdf of what I drew up on ACAD. What do you think?
- Zeke on 2/8/2013 8:33:22 AM
Lucky, That's a tough one. Great drawing BTW!
It appears this is a basement, making an exterior wall alteration impossible. There is however an easy fix for the lally column obstruction.
If the basement ceiling is "finished," this solution would be a bitch, but still possible Hoping it's not, here's the ultimate solution:
Simply remove the lally-column and orient the table 90 degrees from "as drawn" - and center it in the "new" expanded space!
The lally column removal would involve installing an "pocket beam" to take the load now held by the lally-column. This is accomplished (and I've done this on two separate occasions) by first supporting the floor above, cutting out a "pocket" (space) within the floor joists - wide enough to be able to insert a new beam into the cut away void. Use TECO brackets to nail the joists to the new transverse beam and voila - no more lally-column!
Typically, floor joists that span 12 feet, which is what your drawing appears to show (at the lally-column traversing point) would be minimally 2x8's. Buy taking 4, 2x8's (or 10's, if THAT's the joist dimension) together, and a fletch plate (a piece of 1/2" thick steel, 7" high and 12' long) can be sandwiched in between the 2x8/10's and the load born by the lally-column, could be transferred to the perimeter wall(s) - rather than into the middle of the space!
You secure the steel "sandwich" by drilling staggered holes thru the entire assembly and using 1/2" carriage bolts securing the four 2x8/10's and steel fletch plate as a single unit.
Of course the local lumber yard could also design a simple micro-lam, order it for you and then have a carpenter install it. Either way, the lally column issue is laid to rest and you get one helluva nice pool room ;-)
Here's a link for the hangers I mentioned. They run about 2-bucks a pop. Assuming your joists are 16" o.c., you'd need maybe 10: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B001AXCXYW/ref=asc_df_B001AXCXYW2379456?tag=thefind0045331-20&creative=395261&creativeASIN=B001AXCXYW&linkCode=asn
The 4-2x8/10's might run 100 and the steel flitch plate and bolts to assembly the beam might run another 200.
The only problem you might incur is any wiring, plumbing pipes or heating pipes that run thru the new beam zone.
They'd have to be re-worked and if significant in numbers and complexity, become a deal breaker...
If your dead serious about having a 9-footer - and playing more than once a month, this solution is not an option. It is your only reasonable option.
4-foot sticks is NOT!
- Zeke on 2/8/2013 8:39:43 AM
Sorry, there's a few typos above. One being the 5th paragraph from the bottom. It was supposed to read, "The 4-2x8/10's might run 100..."
- luckyshot on 2/8/2013 10:26:54 AM
Zeke thanks again for all your help. I'm not set on getting a 9' table at all, I just have an opportunity to get one at a good price. Doing that work is something I would like to do, but if I were to do it I wouldn't turn the table. In that area I have my poker table. I do plan on playing on the table as much as I can. As you can see in the layout there are only two areas where a shorty stick would need to be used, everywhere else there is at 57" clearance. Would you say that's not exceptable? If not that's fine and I'll stop looking at the 9' table and start looking at 8' tables.
- Zeke on 2/8/2013 5:44:48 PM
The lally-column and inside corner would likely be a problem with an 8-footer as well. Remember, if you reduce the size by a foot, it only takes six inches off each side.
The poker table would work well near the right-side basement window. You can move a poker table around.
A pool table, not so much ;-)
Where's the bowling alley go again ?
- luckyshot on 2/9/2013 8:12:31 PM
Lol no bowling alley, but the area you are talking about is where my theater style seating movie area. The area I have the pool table shown in is really the only place I have for it. What would you think about going to an 8' table and use 53" cues? If going to an 8' table would give me approximately 6" more around then going to 53" cues would then give me an additional 10" to the sides...right? That would then somewhat take the column out of way, except for every once and awhile. Then the corner would really be the only bad part and a shorty stick could be used if needed. Hmmm now that I looking at it, if I use 53" cues on a 9' table that would give me exactly 53" clearance all around except for the corner, where once again I could use a short stick as needed.
P.S. I'm not looking to play tournaments or anything with having this table. Yeah I'd practice/play by myself on it, but it would be for entertainment when guests are over. Trust me none of my friends are sharks either. It's just that I have a chance to get a really nice 9' table for a good price.
- Zeke on 2/12/2013 8:44:57 AM
Now I see the dilemma. The solution is simple.
Prioritize your entertainment choices. Realize you cannot have it all - at least not in the poker/pool/theater combination and figure out which one you want most, and then make THAT item perfect, and "compromise" the other two.
A really nice 9' table at a great price (compared to what - is the question d'jour on this one) would be my focus, but filling an inside straight with a big pot on the table is a close second.
Watching a movie with a big screen and decent sound system is an awesome experience. But most movie content these days are lame.
Let us know how it goes.
- billiardsforum on 5/26/2013 7:52:57 PM
Hi @luckyshot, and welcome to the Billiards Forum.
It has been a few months now and I was hoping that you might let us know what you ended up doing? Did you end up buying the 9 foot table? If so, what length of pool cue are you using now?
- tasha_silvester on 5/28/2013 3:53:10 AM
If the room size is 12' 6" x 16' 8" and the playing surface area is 50" x 100", then a 48" size pool cue would definitely work.