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Extreme Draw Shots Technique

Extreme Draw Shots Technique

Okay, so i've seen a shot where extreme draw is applied to the cue ball so that when it hits the object ball, it basically rebounds to where it was hit from.

I have been practicing these extreme draw shots regularly, but can't seem to master them!

How are they done? I mean I know that obviously you have to hit low on the cue ball, but should the butt of the cue elevated for extreme draw shots, or should it remain flat?

The fact that my pool cue sucks the big one doesn't help, I'm sure. Especially bad are the cue tips; could this be a reason why I am having such trouble with draw shots, and with any kind of extreme english?

Extreme Draw Shots Technique

Replies & Comments

  1. denverbilliardsforum on 5/15/2007 11:28:29 AM

    You are going to need to get the hang of regular draw shots before you'll be able to perfect your Extreme Draw Shots Technique as you call it.

    Point number one - dont jab at the cue ball in a jerk like motion. Pulling the cue back to quickly is the most common mistake. Players need to make sure their stroke is correct and follow through as with any normal shot.Actually follow through with your cue. You will be feeling like you are shooting through the cue ball.

    Point number two - hit cue ball below the center. Avoid dipping your cue as you are about to hit the ball. Just shoot smoot straight throught the bottom.

  2. denverGinger on 5/15/2007 11:29:25 AM

    It can also help to hold the butt of the cue loosely while shooting.

  3. denverjana on 5/16/2007 1:29:24 PM

    You should begin practicing your draw shots on short ranges. Keep repeating this until you get the proper stroke down pat, and then you can add six inches as you progress. Pretty soon you'll be able to do a draw shot that will travel the length of the table and maybe more!

  4. denverkyle on 5/18/2007 8:18:10 PM

    You could be hitting it to hard, initially the cue ball will slide and then start to spin if you hit the object ball during the slide portion you will stop/stun the cue ball. Make sure you're hitting the cue ball below center (just because you aim there doesn't mean that's where you hit it). Try using a closed bridge (by looping your finger over your shaft) and looking at the cue ball last rather then the object ball. Someone mentioned following through and IMO it can't be stressed enough if you pull back 4 inches follow through 4 inches this ensures that your hitting the cue ball at the apex of your stroke rather than at the end of your stroke when it's decelerating. Once again someone mentioned a loose wrist/grip, some say to think of a pendullum which is fine for your arm but your cue should be driven forward in a piston motion (straight and level) in order to do this you need a hinge like motion in your hand or wrist, try gripping your cue (butt end) with just your thumb and the two fingers next to it (let go with your pinky and ring finger). A good drill you can do at home to practice a straight and level stroke is to take a coke bottle lie it on its side and sroke through the neck as far as you can and repeat without hitting the edges of the bottle. You may want to take note where your brige hand is in relation to the cue ball you may want to shorten the distance between the cue ball and your hand (or vice versa). Remember chaulk is free, the condition of your tip and if it is holding chaulk properly is a large factor. What I would call extreme draw and what I guess you would call it vary I think, hitting a ball from a table lenth away and drawing back and up the table again (two full table lentghs of draw) is about as extreme as it gets. This is a very advanced shot that only a handfull of pros can execute, the cue ball is actually in the air most of the way to the object ball to avoid any backspin wearing off because of the friction from the cue ball sliding against the table.

  5. denverkellystick on 7/26/2007 1:48:42 PM

    Make sure you apply chalk each time you try "Extreme" draw. If your tip is not well shaped or is too hard lets say and does not hold chalk or otherwise "grip" the CB it will be difficult. Scuff your tip so it will hold chalk. If it is mushroomed and shiny that means you will not hold chalk well nor will you have proper tip contactof the CB during the hit. Scuff and shape the tip like a nickel curvature.

    Prove to yourself it is not your stick by getting someone that can draw to use your stick to do it with. I had the same problem as you. so just keep with it.

    I bought a stick some years back to travel with and the tip was so hard and would not hold chalk that I could not hardly stop the CB much less draw it back. I shaped and scuffed and it did not help. I could only get just a bit of draw with a very meticulous stroke.

    Follow through. Shoot even lower until you miscue. Chalk. Draw from a short distance not a long one.

    Try this. Take a stripe ball and place the stripe oriented sideways. Shoot it (with draw) down the long way of the table and observe the spin. It shoould spin backwards for a bit then seem to sort of slide then begin natural rolling forward. If your back spin does not last long then you are not getting enough back spin on the ball. The only way it will back up is if it still has some back spin on it when it contacts the OB. Otherwise you'll get a stop at best. You get stop when you hit the OB during the sliding period. If you hit the OB after the slide and during natural roll you don't get any draw at all.

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Extreme Draw Shots Technique

  • Title: Extreme Draw Shots Technique
  • Author:
  • Published: 5/14/2007 9:00:33 PM