I just recently had a 9' Olhausen table installed and I was convinced by a very large store that a standard 3 light fixture would suffice for my table. I had heard that a 4 light was the better option, but a couple different people at this store and others said it wasn't necessary. I installed a 58" light (shown below) over the table and I get extreme shadows. Would I still have these shadows with a 72" light? Should I try a different type of light altogether? I don't remember these shadows on my old table that I had years ago. This is in a home theater room, so image is important as it will be seen daily.
Thanks for any advice.
- AwdMan on 3/8/2012 8:54:58 AM
Can you post what your current light is? What wattage and style bulbs are you using? I was alway told a 4 shade lamp works better for a 9' table.
- scotts87iroc on 3/8/2012 6:17:11 PM
Sorry. I forgot to add the picture of the light.
- AwdMan on 3/10/2012 8:16:00 PM
I would suggest a 4 shade light you will defiantly get better lighting with less shadowing and should be able to find that style in 4-shade.
- 2ballrun on 3/11/2012 9:24:20 AM
imo. nothing beats a 4x 8' fluorescent.
- Mitch Alsup on 3/16/2012 1:42:16 PM
If you want a REAL pool light go to Diamond Billiards and look under their lighting section. Pricey, but you can get what you are really looking for. Call Diamond and talk to their representative, he understands pool, pool tables, and pool players--and they can do almost anything (any wood, stain, ...) to match or contrast as you desire.
Except for the darker stain and 9-foot, you table is basically just like mine.
My Diamond light is arriving later this month, being made in Cherry with a natural stain, to match my Cherry with Natural stain Olhausen table.
Be forwarned, these lights weigh about as much as the frame of the table weighs.
- Mitch Alsup on 5/28/2012 12:31:17 PM
My Diamond light arrived, It had been being made in the factory since January or so; and I installed it the week previous.
The thing that I really like about this light, is the total lack of glare from the light into the shooters eyes, and you can see hints of it in the picture. This is not made so clear at Diamond's site.
- Zeke on 7/16/2012 2:10:04 PM
Given the span between the overhead lighting - and the table surface - is a somewhat subjective measurement, could someone suggest upon what criteria that distance should be based upon?
I'm extremely happy with the setup I have, but it's always possible to "improve" the way things work.
I would assume one parameter would to not "waste" light past the outside rail trim.
I would also assume players, no matter where they shoot from, would not want light directly in their eyes?
Minimal shadowing would be another consideration.
True coloration of the balls and the surface would be another.
Nobody wants to crack their forehead on a lamp shade either...
Is there some lighting engineering data out there that could be a starting point?
The 4th reply in this thread by 2ballrun seems to have merit. The question remains, 8' fluorescent what? Two tube? Four tube? Shaded? In a fixture with diffusion lens? Or none of the above.
Why not (assuming an 8-foot ceiling) four "can" lights in the ceiling with spotlights - available in "flood" or "spot" and a dimmer to control them?
Mitch looks like he already has a 4-tube unit. A beautiful light indeed!
- DsmithBFL on 3/13/2013 3:54:15 AM
Although pool table light is entirely optional, I personally feel it is a good addition to any billiard setup. And for this, 4 shade table lights are optimal.
- Zeke on 3/13/2013 6:57:46 AM
Scott, the folks that sold you the table and light blew it.
I'd return the three bulb fixture and ask for a full refund. 9-foot tables require four bulb fixtures. Period.
Of course an 8' fluorescent could also work, but in what configuration is the question? Two bulb, double fours, with lens or not, what spectrum K-range, how high off the ceiling or table, narrow tube energy-efficient, twin 8-footers (4 total), etc... Then too, fluorescents are known to give some headaches. The 60-cycle "flicker" is better than it once was, but the ballasts cannot overcome the fact that the voltage turns the lamp on and off 60 times a second.
Incandescents do NOT have that problem.
- 2ballrun on 3/14/2013 4:12:06 AM
Mine has 4 bulbs 8 foot long with a diffuser. The only time I see any flicker is when a bulb is going bad.
There are no shadows anywhere but a small one under the balls. The light is fantastic, and a heck of a lot cheaper than the diamond. The biggest problem is getting rid of the bulbs. I have to smash them. No one around here takes them for recycling. Not even the HD where I buy them.
- Sergio Lugano on 6/5/2017 1:31:16 PM
I have a similar table and got myself a Budweiser pool table light. Looks good in my mancave and my buddies love it :)