9x5 pool table with metal shield/pocket covers (see images), oak base with mother of pearl inlay.
- geetus on 3/30/2009 6:24:44 AM
I think I answered my own question, it is a Brunswick Regina, 1920s, the metal pocket shields were throwing me off the trail.
Was wondering, there is a logo on the shields, appears to be an S and a B, was this ever
a Brunswick logo? Or is it common to have custom shields made (possibly a company's logo or owner's initials?)
thanks in advance,
- dduffett on 5/9/2009 6:23:32 PM
I beleive it is a Brunswick Regent--if the bottoms of the legs flare out. The Regina also has legs that angle out but do not have the slight flare out at the very bottom. Hard to see for sure due to the color of the carpet in the picture. But just fyi to double check. www.brunswickbilliards.com
- geetus on 5/9/2009 10:03:50 PM
Yes you may be right about that, I need to double check to see if the legs flare in a curved
fashion as in the Regent rather than the straight flare of the Regina. That would make it an
earlier table, quite interesting.
The inlay trim is virtually identical on either from what I can see.
thanks for the info,
- dduffett on 5/10/2009 10:02:11 AM
The only difference in the framed inlay around the middle design in the legs is that some have rounded corners and some have square corners. But I have seen rounded on Regina as well as squared. I have a Regina with no.5 pockets and the Brunswick web site says the Regina has No.6 and the Regent has No. 5 style. So I think some of these tables have interchangeable parts.
- geetus on 5/12/2009 11:14:32 AM
Interesting.. Any clue about the metal pocket covers? custom possibly? or was this an option from
Brunswick I wonder.
- dduffett on 5/12/2009 2:48:17 PM
I will keep searching internet for more info on this metel shield because I am curious as well. There is some text that shows up on several websites that give a buyer information on purchasing a pool table. The last paragraph makes a statement regarding the leather or metal shield option. The paragraph simply states that you should expect to pay more for a table with metal shields as opposed to a leather shield. The shield is just a protector for the podcket leather. I would say that in a home table situation you would expect leather to be good enough but in a commercial setting you would want the metal for added protection from people walking around it more ruthlessly. I have a link below for where I read this. If I were to guess I would say you have a table that used to be in an old pool hall and that was the option they chose for their table to withstand commercial setting abuse. The initials could be the abbreviation of the pool hall. But I would lean more towards the initials being a version of the Bunswick Balke Collender name since Brunswick Balke joined forces with Collender in 1884 hence BBC. And you could see a BBC in the initials if you look at it one way. But you could also see a BC or a even like you said-- SB. I have never seen this option in all the pictures of Regents and Reginas I have looked at for the last month or so. But just like buying a car. You never see any VW bugs on the road until you buy one then there is one at every stoplight. So I will keep an eye out.
- dduffett on 5/12/2009 10:17:31 PM
I checked with a source and he says the pocket sheilds are not Brunswick. He says they may be a part of the "modernizing" kits that were sold by AE Shmidt Billiards that also included wider blind aprons and rails. He also asked if the table had a nameplate that may be different than the standard Brunswick nameplate. As i look at the picture of your table the blinds are about an inch to an inch and a half wider than the blind aprons on most of the Regents or Reginas. Look up Regent or Regina Brunswick on Google or see the ones on Antique pool tables for sale websites and ebay. The blinds on most of these tables will still show the upper part of the frame behind the apron as you look at the table at eye level. One of the reasons I am interested in this is because I am trying to restore a Regina that I got in REAL bad shape. The previous owner thought it was a Regent. Mine has Mahogaony veneer (what is left of it), Oak aprons, unidentifiable maybe Rosewood rails, someone painted the legs with Rhino bed liner, and it has number 5 pocket irons instead of number 6. I have to recreate the inlays for all 4 legs and reapply veneer on all surfaces. I have never veneered before so I have been researching veneering techniques and getting all the information I can about this type of table. I tried to put a picture on here we'll see if it works --first try.
- DonP47 on 3/30/2011 6:22:09 AM
I have a table that is the same profile as the one you show in the restoration photo. Like yours mine was a mess and I am in the process of redoing it is playable at the present, however I am going to replace the rails, cushions and pockets in the future. At present it is a snooker table and I am going to convert it to a regular pool table.
I would appreciate any info you have regarding the model etc. of your table.
- dduffett on 3/30/2011 10:42:35 AM
Brunswick website and link to antique tables. http://www.brunswickbilliards.com/our_rich_history/antique_tables/r_tables.html
Finally finished my table. It is a 1922 Regina. 8 foot oversize. The pockets were no. 5 and all indications were that the table was supposed to have no. 6 pockets. I had Hood leather custom make the pockets and shields leather. The frame warped after I removed the factory veneer from one side. I had to reflatten the the warped frame and re apply veneer. All 4 sides of legs warped when I removed the old veneer. The process included planing sanding and screwing the edges down to a new inner frame then resanding and the use of some automotive body putty to prepare for new veneer. All 4 cornes of each leg received a solid piece of mahogany where the sides meet in case in the future a corner rubs through or comes loose ( easier to fix with same species under the show thru.
The rails had to be rebuilt. I just sliced it and sliced it-- one side at a time until i got to solid poplar. Then rebuilt to K-66 specs with a 1/8 inch thick Pommele Mahogany veneer on top, with K-66 cushions. Also don't forget the underside needs new staple rail. The sides of the slate support will also need new wood for staple rail.
I will NEVER EVER attempt another restore like this. I did all labor myself except for art deco inlays and pocket leather. Spent over $4000 in materials and sold the table for I am not saying. Labor was approx 320 hours so I will never get that time back. I could have been watching tv or mowing the yard or tanning or whatever people do.
I ordered the art deco inlays from Jason at Acute Marquetry
Bought veneer for rails and frame off ebay from Exotic wood veneer plus--see some for sale now.
I had to slice off chunks of rotted wood and glue back in solid mahogany for a solid substrate on all rails. Only the top side got veneer on rails. The edges were solid so I could profile the edge and blend in with the veneer seam rather than roll the veneer edge over the side. I do a dried glue (cheap Titebond yellow glue) iron on method of veneering. C --Mike Burton's Veneering a Foundation Course.
I don't know if I answered your question. There is alot of information in the internet regarding pool tables, etc. This website was good for deminsions and drawings. http://www.bestbilliard.com/resources/buildtable.cfm
- DonP47 on 3/30/2011 12:45:18 PM
No way am I going to put that much time and money in the table I have, All I want is something to play on when friends come by. Right now the rails are pretty bad and do need replacing, I have a lot of walnut sitting in my wood stack and I have already cut the rails and have them drying to less than 8% moisture content before cutting to final size. I am going to order new sub rails, along with K66 rubber and new leather pockets. Will have to make new blinds, out of walnut do a little finish work and enjoy the table. When finished I will have about 1500.00 in mine and about 100 hours labor.
Your table is absolutely beautiful and you should be proud of your efforts. I don't know if I could have sold it after all that work.
- mronhifi123 on 8/15/2011 11:07:36 PM
The only difference in the framed inlay around the middle design in the legs is that some have rounded corners and some have square corners.