Sorry for the question threads. I doubt anyone would need my advice with my experience level anyway.
Anywho, I've been playing for 2 months now. My parents bought me a $900 wooden slate table 2 months ago and I've been addicted to practicing ever since. Maybe because I have the Filipino billiard blood lol.
In these two months, I have been practicing my break using a cheap China-made 19oz cue that came with the table. I've been researching for different break cues throughout the internet. I found out that Wu Chia Ching (which I'm using as a beginner's reference) uses a Predator shaft with a Mezz cue butt. And with being 18 and paying for school loans, I don't have that kind of money to just spend on a break cue.
I've tried a 20 oz cue at a billiard store and saw significant improvement in the speed and control of my break. Searching for break cues again, I've discovered the Elite Heavy 27 oz cue with a phenolic tip. EXTREME specifications. It looks very attractive right now. Though I'm not a massive guy (5'8'' 170lbs), I found that I can get to my maximum speed and control with heavier cues, and with the 20oz cue, I found myself being able to plant the cue ball in the middle area more often. And the speed is probably because I try to lift up the cue butt just before the break strike in which gravity (weight factor) gets a part in the form (Wu does this, Bustamante and de Luna as well).
I would just like to know if you guys have any feedback from this brand of cue and its specifications, and the website Pooldawg.com as well (reliability, Canada shipping, etc.).
First off, you have heard right about the phenolic tip. It does not hold chalk very well and the Master brand is no different. I had a phenolic tip and it is history. I removed it and put a leather tip on the break cue.
Secondly, Instead of looking for the 400 lb gorilla of a break stick, you would be better off studying break technique if the break concerns you so. The break stroke is a movement unto its own.
The physics of the problem relates to energy transfer through the cue tip. The faster this cue tip moves the faster the cue ball travels. Newton figured out that f=m*a and thus a=f/m. Thus a larger mass in the cue stick is accelerated slower by the player and delivers less speed to the CB, and a light cue is accelerated faster.
As teh tip impacts the CB, the tip, shaft and a tiny portion of the CB compress. Durring this compression the energy transfer takes place. Since the CB leaves the tip in less than 2 milliseconds, the shock wave has not even arrived at the players hand by the time the CB is on its way. Thus, there is nothinig the player can do with the energy transfer equation, except deliver the tip to the CB as fast as possible.
Where mass comes in is when the cue stick becomes so light that the weight of the forearm so outweights the stick you cannot easily feel what the stick is doing and you fail to place the tip on the CB at the correct spot. Thus, there is a minimum weight for the cue stick that works well. This is around 17oz but many prefer 19oz.
I use a 18 oz break cue and a 17.75 oz play cue. The only cue I have which is heavy is my massé cue at 24 oz.
Just because Mitch uses a 17 oz break cue does not mean it will bod well for you. He is a well experienced player and has refinded his game. Take a step backward and look at all the variables and potential result. You may be better off with a 19 oz or an 18 oz. More speed. There is no one size fits all. You will have to learn from your own experience and evaluations after trying different cues. And remember what I said before: develope your own techhnique......do not a copy cat be.
True. But on the other hand I do agree bigger is not necessarily better. I break best with a 19 ounce cue and wouldn't you know it my player is also 17.75. I tried a Viper break jump, 24 ounce and it sucked. Like trying to swinging a 20+ pound hammer on finishing nails.
As noted above, my break cue is 18 oz. As anyone's game develops their preference for various components may also change. So get a stick that your arm and head agree is working with your psyche, then use it to develop your game.